When you return from a holiday, you usually wax eloquent about what a great time you had. After a holiday in Srinagar, you need say nothing. People look at you with envy as they try to picturise the snowclad mountains, the emerald green valleys, sky skimming chinars, the pretty gardens and lakes, and of course the heavenly weather. Such is the region?s beauty that when Jahangir, the Mughal emperor, set sight on it, he exclaimed "Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin asto If there is a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here, it's here.

History
Srinagar has been at the centre of the Kashmir turbulence. But it was not always so. It flourished under the great Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century BC. In the 6th century, it was a part of the kingdom of Vikramaditya, the ruler of Ujjain. The Mughals took it over in the medieval period and laid out the beautifully landscaped gardens. Several centuries later, the British took it over and gave Gulab Singh of the royal family of Kashmir the status of an independent ruler.

When Srinagar became the target of Pakistan?s takeover agenda after Independence and Partition, the royal family proceeded to merge Kashmir with India. But being a Muslim-majority state, Pakistan felt Kashmir rightfully belongs to it, and that the Kashmiri people and not the king should have made the decision of accession. And it allegedly began sponsoring a militant independent Kashmir movement, whose bombings and killings have ravaged the state for more than a decade now. Several wars have been fought, numerous treaties signed and many cultural exchanges made between the two countries but the Kashmir thorn still remains.

How to Reach
Air
Srinagar airport is 14 km from the city. There are daily direct flights to Delhi, Mumbai and Jammu. Jammu and Kashmir State Road Transport Corporation (J&KSRTC) operates special coach services between the airport and the city.

Rail
The nearest rail head is at Jammu, which is about 300 km away. Trains connect the city to Delhi, Kolkata, Pune, Mumbai, Kanyakumari and Ahmedabad.

Road
Srinagar is well connected by road to Chandigarh (630 km), Delhi (876 km), and Jammu (298 km). J&KSRTC operates express coaches between Jammu and Srinagar and the journey takes approximately 8 hours and costs Rs. 260 per person. For booking contact call 455107.Traveling by taxi between the two cities costs around Rs. 2,400.

Lakes
Dal Lake
Srinagar?s pride and everyone?s dream! The lake is not just a water body, but rather like a city in itself. The houseboat and shikara communities have permanent homes on the lake, complete with patches floating vegetable and lotus gardens. Doctors, tailors, bakers, and grocers dot the edges of the lake in compact wooden homes. Quite unbelievable!The Dal stretches over 5 km and is split into Gagri Dal, Lokut Dal and Bod Dal by a series of causeways. The main causeway across the lake carries the pipeline for Srinagar's water supply.

Nagin Lake
This deep-blue lake encircled by towering trees offers all the privacy and calm that you could ask for. No wonder it?s a hit with honeymooners. You can rent boats from the camping site here to simply row around the lake or to look for a houseboat. The causeways are a convenient route for walkers and bicyclists to get to their destination without having to worry about traffic or shikaras.

Mughal Gardens and Palaces
The Mughal emperors? lasting gift to this land is the delightful gardens. With stepped terraces, gurgling watercourses, stone pavilions, and rows of neat shrubs and flowering plants, this was their vision of the Garden of Heaven. The sky-skimming chinars are a recurring motif of these gardens. If not pruned, these can grow to a height of 100 ft. With its brown five-lobed leaves and flowers on double stalks, the tree is a symbol of Kashmiri culture. Interestingly, the large hollow trunks of the chinar have served as meditating spots for spiritual leaders and philosophers over the ages.

Shalimar Bagh
A tribute of love from Emperor Jehangir to his wife Nur Jahan, Shalimar Bagh is also known as the Garden of Love. This is where the emperor and his queen enjoyed moments of solitude. There is a pavilion made of black stone in the middle of a tank, supported by black marble fluted pillars. This was used as a banquet hall. The entire garden is structured around four terraces with an ancient but still operable system of water channels passing through them.A sound and light show is put on here every evening during the May to October tourist season.

Nishat Bagh
The Nishat Bagh, built by Empress Nur Jahan?s brother, Asaf Ali has a unique theme: its 12 terraces represent the 12 signs of the zodiac, which descend gradually and seem to almost merge into the Dal Lake. Its flowerbeds, trees, fountains, pavilions and gazebos make it the prettiest and the most crowded of the all the gardens.

Chasma Shahi
Small certainly is beautiful! The smallest of Srinagar's Mughal gardens, it has only three terraces, in addition to a natural spring enclosed in a stone pavilion. The waters of the spring are believed to have medicinal properties. And right through his prime ministership, Jawaharlal Nehru ensured he drank only this water, as all others were bitter compared to this nectar.

Parimahal
Pari Mahal, the ?Palace of the Fairies?, is an ancient Sufi centre, just a stone?s throw away from the Chasma Shahi Garden. You can easily approach Parimahal via the garden. Graceful arched terraces are its striking feature. This too has a sound and light show every evening between May and October.

Religious Places
Hazratbal Mosque
Pristine white, it is one of the touchstones of Islamic faith, because a hair of Prophet Mohammed is said to be preserved here. This is displayed to the public on days of religious significance. Hazratbal is unique for another reason too?it is the only domed mosque in Srinagar, in contrast to the regular mosques with pagoda-like roofs. Friday prayers see a huge throng of faithfuls gathering at the mosque.

Shankaracharya Temple
Built on the highest hill in Srinagar, it has a hoary past dating back to 2500 BC. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple was from where the philosopher Shankaracharya commenced his efforts to revive Hinduism and spread the Advaita philosophy over ten centuries ago.

Chatti Padshahi Gurudwara
This gurudwara is revered, for the sixth Sikh Guru stayed here briefly to preach and share his wisdom.