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Mumbai:

If there is one place on the face of earth where all the dreams of living men have found a home, from the very earliest days when man began the dream for existence, it is Mumbai!? These words of Romain Rolland say it all. Mumbai is the nagaria of dreams. People come in from all over the country to make their life here, some succeed and move to the tallest and posh-est of homes others are reduced to nothing and pass their nights on railway platforms. It is also a city of contrasts. Huge contrasts.A strong regional movement turned the name of the city and its institutions around, Bombay became Mumbai, Victoria terminus became Chattrapati Shivaji terminus and a lot many more?but the heart of Bombay has not changed. It will take you into its folds no matter what your status or signature.

History
The city of Mumbai is actually nothing but a collection of seven islands, and a lot of reclaimed land! It?s true, whether you believe-it-or-not.In the yester years Bombay consisted of islands ?Colaba, Mazagao, Old Woman's Island, Wadala, Mahim, Parel, and Matunga-Sion.

Through the years these passed through various hands ? the Hindu rulers, the Mohammedans, the Portuguese (A lot of structures like the Afghan church, Mahim Mosque have been built in this era. In fact some say Bombay got its name thanks to the Portuguese who called it "Bom Baia" which in Portuguese means "Good Bay". The truth behind the name is still not very clear, most original Bombaiites (kolis) believe the name origins from Mumbaidevi, the goddess of Mumbai).

Anyways, the islands were then gifted to Charles II of England in 1661, as a dowry for his Portuguese wife Catherine de Braganza. These were in turn then leased out to the British East India Company in 1668, for as little as an annual sum of 10 pounds in gold! Yes that?s what Bombay meant to them.A mammoth engineering project began in 1817 to merge all the islands into one. The kolis, the original folks of Bombay moved out to smaller areas mainly Backbay reclamation, Mahim, Bandra, Khar, Bassien and Madh island where they continue to live.

Over years, the city grew into a major urban centre archaic and gothic building dotted the face of Bombay and in 1930, Bombay got its current world famous BSE building. Bombay has played a very important role in the independence especially at the time of the Quit India Movement. Post independence Bombay was the capital for both Maharashtra and Gujarat as we know them today. Post 1950 however Bombay became the capital of Maharashtra and continues to grow and glow by the day. Some time in the late 90?s Bombay became Mumbai.

A note from history?As a result of a mysterious fire which started in the docks of Bombay, on Friday April 14, 1944, the ship "Fort Stikine" (7420 tons) blew up here. At the time the ship was about to unload a lethal combination of cargo of dried fish and cotton bales (loaded from Karachi), timber, gun powder, ammunition, and gold bars from London (the latter to stabilize the Indian Rupee, which was sagging due to the Second World War and fear of invasion from Japan). The gold bullion was valued at approx. two million Pounds Sterling at that time. The two explosions were so loud that windows rattled and/or shattered as far away as Dadar, a distance of 8 miles. The destruction in the docks and surrounding area was immense and several hundred dock workers were killed instantly.

The population of the city was panic stricken as rumours spread rapidly that the explosions signaled the commencement of hostilities by the Japanese on the same style as the surprise attack on Pearl Harbour in the Hawaiian islands in December 1941. The Japanese were in fact nowhere near Bombay since they were engaged in fighting a losing battle with the British army in Burma at that time. Nevertheless, the Bombay Central (BB&CI) and Victoria Terminus (GIP) stations were packed to capacity with terrorized people fleeing the city in whichever train they could board for their villages with all belongings they could carry. At the time of the explosion, one of the gold bars crashed through the roof of the third floor apartment of a Parsi named D.C. Motivala more than a mile from the docks. He promptly returned the gold bar to the authorities. Almost all of the other gold bars were subsequently recovered from different parts of the city; the last ones to be found were hauled up from the bottom of the sea in the docks. However, during normal dredging operations carried out periodically to maintain the depth of the docking bays one or two gold bars were found intact as late as the 1970s and returned to the British government.?
-- excerpted from Ardeshir Damania?s note on Bombay

How to Reach
Air
The Chhatrapati Shivaji airports -- two of them -- one for domestic and other for international airlines connect the city to important cities and towns within and outside India. A lot of international airlines fly to Mumbai, for those that don?t you can hop onto a domestic service from your point of arrival.

Rail
There are three train lines that operate in and out of Mumbai, but the two important ones are Central Railways and the Western Railways. The former runs trains to the east and south, plus a few to the north and operates from the Victoria Terminus or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), Dadar and Kurla. Western Railways has services to the north (including Rajasthan and Delhi) and operates from Mumbai Central or Bandra Terminus.

Road
Both private operators and the state government run long-distance buses regularly to and from Mumbai.Depending on where you want to travel to, private long-distance buses depart from Dr. Anandrao Nair Road, near Mumbai Central, from MG Road, just south of Metro Cinema, from Dadar TT (just under the flyover).

There are regular services to Pune, Ahmedabad, Aurangabad, Mahabaleshwar, Goa, Nasik, Shirdi, Kolhapur among many others.In case there are AC Volvo?s plying to your destination, we suggest you take those; the drives will be a lot much more comfortable.

Water
This service applies only to a few places. You can hop onto these boats/ ferries to go to Alibag, Murud Janjira, Mandwa, Elephanta caves and other places across the coasts of Konkan. Mumbai is being linked through a seaway, but the work is a few years from completion, once this is done, you can use the waterways to get around Mumbai and its suburbs.

What to see
Bombay is a tourists? paradise, there?s so much to see here that one barely has enough time to take a compete tour of the city, in fact people living here too have not seen all that Mumbai has to offer and that?s not over exaggerating.

Historical Places
Gateway of India

This triumphal arch was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary, but it has now become a great spot for romance. Where one can sit against the walls that separate the sea from the road having their little bites and probably feeding the pigeons too; with a view of the gigantic Taj Mahal Hotel on one end and Navy Nagar on the other. At times you can see big cruise liners and ships docked here too. Do hop onto one of the motor launches that start at the gateway, they take you on a cruise through Mumbai's splendid natural harbour. Another must-do is the evening tanga ride on the coast, along Apollo Bunder. It is a little expensive at about Rs. 300, but the sights and the breeze make it worthwhile. Launches for Elephanta Caves set off from the Gateway of India.

Flora Fountain
Right in the heart of Mumbai, lies this serene spot. It gets its name from the Roman Goddess of Flower, whose statute is the pivot around which two torch-bearing patriots statues have been installed. The fountain looms between tall buildings housing offices and shops. Flora Fountain is now called Hutatma Chowk or Martyr's Square to honour those who died in the tumultuous birth of Maharashtra State. It?s a great place to go to too shop, most Banks have their head offices in this area.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus
Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus has an interesting history. One of the areas along the eastern shore line of Mumbai, it was used as a storehouse for goods imported and exported from Bombay. In the 1850s, the Great Indian Peninsular Railway built its railway terminus in this area and the station took its name as Bori Bunder, which literally means a place where sacks are stored. It was eventually named Victoria Terminus and now, is called Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. This structure is an architectural beauty with carvings of peacocks, gargoyles, monkeys, elephants and British lions mixed up among the buttresses, domes, turrets, spires and stained glass windows, this is one of the busiest stations in the world. If you have the time, come here during office hours, just to watch the mad rush of people getting into and off the trains.

Rajabhai Tower
This is where most Mumbaiites come to receive their convocation degrees. The tower lies within the university campus, right next to the High Court. The Gothic clock tower that rises above the portion of the library section has always given the right time and has stopped just once in all these years. Very recently the clock tower got a new life, with its stain glass windows being re-done. Consisting of five elaborately decorated storey?s, the tower is 280 ft. in height. The top of the cupola is ornamented with sixteen statues and about 30 ft. from the ground are eight other statues. You can see this tower from the longest of distances, just opposite this lies a huge ground, cross it and you come to Bombay?s best book store, the Oxford book store.

Crawford market
This is one market that?s always buzzing with people, both traders and housewives who shop here for their supplies of veggies, meats, and fruits at wholesale rates. Now called Jyotibha Phule market, this market is one of the most colorful indoor market in Mumbai, the structure itself is quite interesting with a blend of Flemish and Norman architecture. The market was designed by Lockyard Kipling, father of the famous Rudyard Kipling. Incidentally the Kiplings' cottage stands a stones? throw away from the market within the campus of J J School of Art. If you come here, make sure you get into the Huge cloth market a stones throw away from here, Zaveri bazaar is a five minute walk from here.

Museums and Science Centres
Mani Bhawan

On the yellow-flower, tree-lined quiet Laburnum Road, lies the Mumbai home of Mahatma Gandhi. This nondescript structure has a photo exhibition of the Mahatma's life, well-preserved memorabilia including an old charkha or spinning wheel that Gandhiji used and a library with over 2,000 books. Many Gandhians still frequent this place to weave fabric and spin the charkha. It is open 10 am-6 pm.

Prince of Wales Museum
This is one spot of Mumbai that?s always flooded with tourists and locals alike. To call the building impressive is an understatement, both from the insides and outsides. The building is an impressive mix of Gothic and Islamic architectures. Inside are artifacts dating back to 2000 BC, to the Harappan period. But everybody?s favourite are the over 2000 miniature paintings from various art schools of India, it also has a fine collection of oil paintings and Chinese Jade pieces. The museum itself is divided into three main sections: Art, Archaeology and Natural History. When here do not miss a miniature model of the Paris Tower of Silence at Malabar Hill.Timings are 10.15 am-6 pm, Mondays are holidays.

Jehangir Art Gallery
Next to the Prince of Wales Museum is Mumbai? premier gallery hosting weekly/monthly exhibitions of well-known Indian artists as well as beginners. The restaurant at the art gallery, Samovar serves some of the best snacks, parathas and sprout salads, do take a bite when you?re here. The gallery becomes the centre of activity during the Kala Ghoda festival. A lot of upcoming artists and street artists, showcase their work on the promenade just outside the gallery too.Timings are 11 am-6 pm.

National Gallery of Modern Art
Standing tall opposite the Prince of Wales Museum is the NGMA, a devastatingly beautiful structure that was once the old public hall. The gallery showcases works of India's best-known artists. There is one permanent exhibit, while the rest of the gallery is used by various artists to put up their shows. If you are into art this is one place you must come too, it?s your window to the country's contemporary art scenario. The museum is open 11 am-6 pm; Mondays are holidays.

Nehru Centre and Planetarium
The spank centre built as a memorial to India?s first prime minister has an elaborate Discovery of India exhibition, a must visit for anyone interested in the history of our country. The planetarium next door is also very popular with amateur astronomers. Daily shows reveal the timeless mysteries of the cosmos. It is open all days except Mondays with shows in three languages.

Beaches
Though Mumbai originally was a cluster of seven islands, it has only three main beaches to talk about now.

Chowpatty
Mumbai's most famous beach is better known for the yummy food you get in the tiny eateries here, than it is known for the sand and the surf. This is where Mumbai?s biggest Ganapati?s come for immersion during the 11 day ganesh-utsav festival. At that time this part of the city is best organized as there are hundred of cops all over and the roads are made one-way. A Nana Nani Park has recently been created around the beach, it also now houses a water sports complex (closed during the rainy months). Come here to feed the pigeons, there?s a huge feeding ground, Just next to the beach stands teen batti, a signaling post that was used for the ships coming to bay in the yester years.

Juhu
Scampering children, romancing couples and evening joggers, that?s Juhu but more than that, this is the place for golas (ice lolly) and chaat?s. There is no better place to experience the true Mumbaiya spirit than here. Stay out of the water and avoid coming here on a Sunday though, and for those of you who wish to sip some warm liquids after a cool day by the beach, there?s Mocha?s right opposite and the very famous Shiv Sagar for all kinds of good food and drinks around the corner.

Bandstand
At the very end of Bandra, Bandstand is known for its lovely jogger?s park, the homes of a few well known celebs and the promenade that got a lot of attention during its make over. That apart this is one place where you can enjoy a quiet meal at the sea side caf?nd can actually sit on the rocky beach and watch the sea all day long.

Parks & Gardens
Sanjay Gandhi National Park

Mumbai is the only city to have a national park within its city limits! But over time this green lung also seems to be shrinking with the city growing far faster than its means to provide space to live. Nevertheless the park still has a few leopards, tigers (all captive), birds and butterflies, deers, monkeys, hyenas. The national park opens into the Yevur hills of Thane onto the other end. For the kids they have a 30-minute lion and tiger safari that starts at about 1 km?s distance from the entrance gate. Within the park are the Kanheri Caves, a monastery where monks practiced their austerities around the 1st century AD. Unlike Elephanta, these caves are much simpler.

Hanging Gardens
Atop Malabar Hill, it offers great views of the whole of Mumbai city. These gardens are just opposite the Kamala Nehru Park and provide lovely sunset views over the Arabian Sea. The park was laid out in the early 1880s over Bombay?s main reservoir, some say to cover the water from the potentially contaminating activity of the nearby Towers of Silence. It to date is a great place to hang out.

Priyadarshini Park
The park where the elite of Bombay come to walk, Priyadarshini Park is on the busy Neapean Sea road. This is the only park to offer yoga classes by the morning and evening. Laughter clubs are also associated with this park, so don?t be surprised to see a group of grown men and women laughing their guts out while you are on your morning walk!

Catchy Corners
Khotachiwadi

Amidst the high rises of South Mumbai is this hamlet of Maharashtrian Hindus and Christians. Near Opera House lies this tiny wadi with smaller gallies (streets) and homes that are reminiscent of old village homes, with a city touch to it. The colors on the homes here are extremely young and alive. A few of Bombay?s famous personalities stay here, when you?re here go across to anantashram for awesome fish food.

Dhobi Ghat
Here is where the dhobis (washermen) of Mumbai unite, wash the dirty linen collected from all over and return it neatly pressed to every house, all for a pittance. The endless lines of dhobis soaping, rinsing, and drying clothes is a sight to behold. The Ghat is near Mahalaxmi railway station.

Fishy Corners!
Sassoon Dock
The fishing area in
downtown Colaba, this is where you will rub shoulders with the typical fisherfolk of Mumbai. There is a perpetual pervasive smell of fish and chaos reigns, yet Sassoon dock is an experience worth undertaking. The streets here are full of nets either being woven together or those full of fresh catch.

Worli Fishing Village
It is inhabited by the Kolis, the original residents of Mumbai. These tribal fisherfolk live here in tightly knit communities, the colourful koli women, their dark skins offset by chunky tribal jewellery are great photo subjects.


Religious Places
Siddhivinayak temple

No other temple in Mumbai has as much a following as this one does. On any given Monday night, you will see hundreds of people walking bare foot all night long to reach this ganesha temple. Such is the faith in the elephant god. It is said that this temple is the second most-richest temple in India. On auspicious days the queue can get as long as a few kms. Now there is a shop called prasadam next to the temple where you can buy your Prasad, or even enjoy a good meal there.

Mahalaxmi Temple
Fittingly enough to the financial capital of India, is this temple dedicated to the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, that?s extremely busy on the day the stock market closes for the week -- a Friday. If you happen to be in the city during Navratri (nine-day festival) this is believed to be the most auspicious time to visit the temple,but be ready tostand in long queues.

Mumbai devi temple
Though this temple is not as striking as the others, this temple belongs to the resident deity of Mumbai, Mumbadevi. The structure is about six centuries old, believed to be the handiwork of Mumbaraka, a sadistic giant who frequently plundered the city at the time. The goddess has an orange face and her altar is always strewn with marigolds. Devotees believe that those who seek her divine favor are never disappointed. Take a trip down here, when you visit Zaveri bazaar or Crawford market.

Haji Ali Dargah
This is another must go to place. Dedicated to a wealthy Muslim merchant and saint named Haji Ali, this white mosque is approached by a long walkway, as it is right in the centre of the sea at Worli. Legend has it that Haji Ali died on his way to Mecca and his body, in its casket, floated back to Mumbai. However, some believe that Haji Ali drowned at the place where the dargah stands. Avoid visiting on Thursdays and Fridays as it is teeming with devotees. Non-Muslims are permitted to walk on the causeway and in the mosque compound.

Banganga
In the Malabar Hill area lies a sacred tank whose water is believed to come from the Holy Ganges. It?s believed that Lord Rama, in search of his kidnapped wife Sita, stopped in this area and asked his brother Laxman for water. Laxman shot an arrow into the ground, and water gushed forth from the Ganga, which is over a thousand miles away such is the story of banganga.On religious occasions many turn up to take a ritual dip in these waters. The area is dotted with temples and dharamsalas (resthouses). Once a year the Banganga musical festival is held here, where musicians perform either by the side of the tank, or right in the centre of the water body. It?s a great experience.

Mount Mary Church
Situated on a quiet hillock in suburban Bandra, Mount Mary is probably Mumbai's best-known church for Christians and non-christians alike. As the name suggests, it is dedicated to the Mother of Christ and in September, the festival of the Virgin Mother culminates in a week long fair, popularly known as Bandra Fair, which has all the excitement of a small carnival. Stalls sell sticky Goan sweets and wax idols of the Virgin along with an assortment of candles shaped like hands, feet and various other parts of the body. The sick and suffering choose one that corresponds to their ailment and light it in Church, with the pious hope that Mother Mary will consider their appeals for help.

Afghan Church
Afghan Church is situated at the southern end of the Colaba Island and is better known as RC church, this lies in the sparkling clean Navy Nagar area of Bombay. The church was consecrated in 1858 and the elegant steeple that one can see till date was completed in 1865. Each part of the church is worth looking at for its details like the walls are made of rubble faced with coarse Kurla Stone, the piers, arches, coignes and dressings are of Porbunder Stone, the roof is built of varnished teakwood with hammer beam style ribbing. The floor of the chancel is made of encaustic tiles (in-laid with colored clay) imported from England. It has a beautiful altar, tall pinnacles, 21 lancet windows with exquisite stained glass fixed in the triangular apexes, on either side of the nave. A general memorial consists of series of white marble tablets bearing the names of 158 of its officers. I may have lot you in the details, but the place is truly worth a visit.

The dargah of Makhdoom Ali Mahimi
This dargah of the secular Sufi saint is popular as the Mahim dargah and is said to be at least 350 years old. Unlike any other in Bombay this is the only the dargah sharief to have has five domes and they sell some awesome food by the entrance of the structure. Should you wish to feed people, very close to here are a few small restaurants that feed the hungry, of all castes and creed.

Isckon
Better known as Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple, it was the first religious structure to bring fame to juhu. A place of worship, meditation and spiritual knowledge, the temple advocates the principles of Bhagvad Gita as, taught by Lord Krishna and holds discourses regularly. This is one place where you can still get married, if you wish a temple wedding.

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