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there is one place on the face of earth where all the dreams
of living men have found a home, from the very earliest days
when man began the dream for existence, it is Mumbai!? These
words of Romain Rolland say it all. Mumbai is the nagaria
of dreams. People come in from all over the country to make
their life here, some succeed and move to the tallest and
posh-est of homes others are reduced to nothing and pass their
nights on railway platforms. It is also a city of contrasts.
Huge contrasts.A strong regional movement turned the name
of the city and its institutions around, Bombay became Mumbai,
Victoria terminus became Chattrapati Shivaji terminus and
a lot many more?but the heart of Bombay has not changed. It
will take you into its folds no matter what your status or
signature.
History
The city of Mumbai is actually nothing but a collection of
seven islands, and a lot of reclaimed land! It?s true, whether
you believe-it-or-not.In the yester years Bombay consisted
of islands ?Colaba, Mazagao, Old Woman's Island, Wadala, Mahim,
Parel, and Matunga-Sion.
Through
the years these passed through various hands ? the Hindu rulers,
the Mohammedans, the Portuguese (A lot of structures like
the Afghan church, Mahim Mosque have been built in this era.
In fact some say Bombay got its name thanks to the Portuguese
who called it "Bom Baia" which in Portuguese means
"Good Bay". The truth behind the name is still not
very clear, most original Bombaiites (kolis) believe the name
origins from Mumbaidevi, the goddess of Mumbai).
Anyways,
the islands were then gifted to Charles II of England in 1661,
as a dowry for his Portuguese wife Catherine de Braganza.
These were in turn then leased out to the British East India
Company in 1668, for as little as an annual sum of 10 pounds
in gold! Yes that?s what Bombay meant to them.A mammoth engineering
project began in 1817 to merge all the islands into one. The
kolis, the original folks of Bombay moved out to smaller areas
mainly Backbay reclamation, Mahim, Bandra, Khar, Bassien and
Madh island where they continue to live.
Over
years, the city grew into a major urban centre archaic and
gothic building dotted the face of Bombay and in 1930, Bombay
got its current world famous BSE building. Bombay has played
a very important role in the independence especially at the
time of the Quit India Movement. Post independence Bombay
was the capital for both Maharashtra and Gujarat as we know
them today. Post 1950 however Bombay became the capital of
Maharashtra and continues to grow and glow by the day. Some
time in the late 90?s Bombay became Mumbai.
A
note from history?As a result of a mysterious fire which started
in the docks of Bombay, on Friday April 14, 1944, the ship
"Fort Stikine" (7420 tons) blew up here. At the
time the ship was about to unload a lethal combination of
cargo of dried fish and cotton bales (loaded from Karachi),
timber, gun powder, ammunition, and gold bars from London
(the latter to stabilize the Indian Rupee, which was sagging
due to the Second World War and fear of invasion from Japan).
The gold bullion was valued at approx. two million Pounds
Sterling at that time. The two explosions were so loud that
windows rattled and/or shattered as far away as Dadar, a distance
of 8 miles. The destruction in the docks and surrounding area
was immense and several hundred dock workers were killed instantly.
The
population of the city was panic stricken as rumours spread
rapidly that the explosions signaled the commencement of hostilities
by the Japanese on the same style as the surprise attack on
Pearl Harbour in the Hawaiian islands in December 1941. The
Japanese were in fact nowhere near Bombay since they were
engaged in fighting a losing battle with the British army
in Burma at that time. Nevertheless, the Bombay Central (BB&CI)
and Victoria Terminus (GIP) stations were packed to capacity
with terrorized people fleeing the city in whichever train
they could board for their villages with all belongings they
could carry. At the time of the explosion, one of the gold
bars crashed through the roof of the third floor apartment
of a Parsi named D.C. Motivala more than a mile from the docks.
He promptly returned the gold bar to the authorities. Almost
all of the other gold bars were subsequently recovered from
different parts of the city; the last ones to be found were
hauled up from the bottom of the sea in the docks. However,
during normal dredging operations carried out periodically
to maintain the depth of the docking bays one or two gold
bars were found intact as late as the 1970s and returned to
the British government.?
-- excerpted from Ardeshir Damania?s note on Bombay
How
to Reach
Air
The Chhatrapati Shivaji airports -- two of them -- one for
domestic and other for international airlines connect the
city to important cities and towns within and outside India.
A lot of international airlines fly to Mumbai, for those that
don?t you can hop onto a domestic service from your point
of arrival.
Rail
There are three train lines that operate in and out of Mumbai,
but the two important ones are Central Railways and the Western
Railways. The former runs trains to the east and south, plus
a few to the north and operates from the Victoria Terminus
or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), Dadar and Kurla. Western
Railways has services to the north (including Rajasthan and
Delhi) and operates from Mumbai Central or Bandra Terminus.
Road
Both private operators and the state government run long-distance
buses regularly to and from Mumbai.Depending on where you
want to travel to, private long-distance buses depart from
Dr. Anandrao Nair Road, near Mumbai Central, from MG Road,
just south of Metro Cinema, from Dadar TT (just under the
flyover).
There
are regular services to Pune, Ahmedabad, Aurangabad, Mahabaleshwar,
Goa, Nasik, Shirdi, Kolhapur among many others.In case there
are AC Volvo?s plying to your destination, we suggest you
take those; the drives will be a lot much more comfortable.
Water
This service applies only to a few places. You can hop onto
these boats/ ferries to go to Alibag, Murud Janjira, Mandwa,
Elephanta caves and other places across the coasts of Konkan.
Mumbai is being linked through a seaway, but the work is a
few years from completion, once this is done, you can use
the waterways to get around Mumbai and its suburbs.
What
to see
Bombay is a tourists? paradise, there?s so much to see here
that one barely has enough time to take a compete tour of
the city, in fact people living here too have not seen all
that Mumbai has to offer and that?s not over exaggerating.
Historical Places
Gateway of India
This triumphal arch was built to commemorate the visit of
King George V and Queen Mary, but it has now become a great
spot for romance. Where one can sit against the walls that
separate the sea from the road having their little bites and
probably feeding the pigeons too; with a view of the gigantic
Taj Mahal Hotel on one end and Navy Nagar on the other. At
times you can see big cruise liners and ships docked here
too. Do hop onto one of the motor launches that start at the
gateway, they take you on a cruise through Mumbai's splendid
natural harbour. Another must-do is the evening tanga ride
on the coast, along Apollo Bunder. It is a little expensive
at about Rs. 300, but the sights and the breeze make it worthwhile.
Launches for Elephanta Caves set off from the Gateway of India.
Flora
Fountain
Right in the heart of Mumbai, lies this serene spot. It gets
its name from the Roman Goddess of Flower, whose statute is
the pivot around which two torch-bearing patriots statues
have been installed. The fountain looms between tall buildings
housing offices and shops. Flora Fountain is now called Hutatma
Chowk or Martyr's Square to honour those who died in the tumultuous
birth of Maharashtra State. It?s a great place to go to too
shop, most Banks have their head offices in this area.
Chhatrapati
Shivaji Terminus
Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus has an interesting history. One
of the areas along the eastern shore line of Mumbai, it was
used as a storehouse for goods imported and exported from
Bombay. In the 1850s, the Great Indian Peninsular Railway
built its railway terminus in this area and the station took
its name as Bori Bunder, which literally means a place where
sacks are stored. It was eventually named Victoria Terminus
and now, is called Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. This structure
is an architectural beauty with carvings of peacocks, gargoyles,
monkeys, elephants and British lions mixed up among the buttresses,
domes, turrets, spires and stained glass windows, this is
one of the busiest stations in the world. If you have the
time, come here during office hours, just to watch the mad
rush of people getting into and off the trains.
Rajabhai
Tower
This is where most Mumbaiites come to receive their convocation
degrees. The tower lies within the university campus, right
next to the High Court. The Gothic clock tower that rises
above the portion of the library section has always given
the right time and has stopped just once in all these years.
Very recently the clock tower got a new life, with its stain
glass windows being re-done. Consisting of five elaborately
decorated storey?s, the tower is 280 ft. in height. The top
of the cupola is ornamented with sixteen statues and about
30 ft. from the ground are eight other statues. You can see
this tower from the longest of distances, just opposite this
lies a huge ground, cross it and you come to Bombay?s best
book store, the Oxford book store.
Crawford
market
This is one market that?s always buzzing with people, both
traders and housewives who shop here for their supplies of
veggies, meats, and fruits at wholesale rates. Now called
Jyotibha Phule market, this market is one of the most colorful
indoor market in Mumbai, the structure itself is quite interesting
with a blend of Flemish and Norman architecture. The market
was designed by Lockyard Kipling, father of the famous Rudyard
Kipling. Incidentally the Kiplings' cottage stands a stones?
throw away from the market within the campus of J J School
of Art. If you come here, make sure you get into the Huge
cloth market a stones throw away from here, Zaveri bazaar
is a five minute walk from here.
Museums
and Science Centres
Mani Bhawan
On the yellow-flower, tree-lined quiet Laburnum Road, lies
the Mumbai home of Mahatma Gandhi. This nondescript structure
has a photo exhibition of the Mahatma's life, well-preserved
memorabilia including an old charkha or spinning wheel that
Gandhiji used and a library with over 2,000 books. Many Gandhians
still frequent this place to weave fabric and spin the charkha.
It is open 10 am-6 pm.
Prince
of Wales Museum
This is one spot of Mumbai that?s always flooded with tourists
and locals alike. To call the building impressive is an understatement,
both from the insides and outsides. The building is an impressive
mix of Gothic and Islamic architectures. Inside are artifacts
dating back to 2000 BC, to the Harappan period. But everybody?s
favourite are the over 2000 miniature paintings from various
art schools of India, it also has a fine collection of oil
paintings and Chinese Jade pieces. The museum itself is divided
into three main sections: Art, Archaeology and Natural History.
When here do not miss a miniature model of the Paris Tower
of Silence at Malabar Hill.Timings are 10.15 am-6 pm, Mondays
are holidays.
Jehangir
Art Gallery
Next to the Prince of Wales Museum is Mumbai? premier gallery
hosting weekly/monthly exhibitions of well-known Indian artists
as well as beginners. The restaurant at the art gallery, Samovar
serves some of the best snacks, parathas and sprout salads,
do take a bite when you?re here. The gallery becomes the centre
of activity during the Kala Ghoda festival. A lot of upcoming
artists and street artists, showcase their work on the promenade
just outside the gallery too.Timings are 11 am-6 pm.
National
Gallery of Modern Art
Standing tall opposite the Prince of Wales Museum is the NGMA,
a devastatingly beautiful structure that was once the old
public hall. The gallery showcases works of India's best-known
artists. There is one permanent exhibit, while the rest of
the gallery is used by various artists to put up their shows.
If you are into art this is one place you must come too, it?s
your window to the country's contemporary art scenario. The
museum is open 11 am-6 pm; Mondays are holidays.
Nehru
Centre and Planetarium
The spank centre built as a memorial to India?s first prime
minister has an elaborate Discovery of India exhibition, a
must visit for anyone interested in the history of our country.
The planetarium next door is also very popular with amateur
astronomers. Daily shows reveal the timeless mysteries of
the cosmos. It is open all days except Mondays with shows
in three languages.
Beaches
Though Mumbai originally was a cluster of seven islands, it
has only three main beaches to talk about now.
Chowpatty
Mumbai's most famous beach is better known for the yummy food
you get in the tiny eateries here, than it is known for the
sand and the surf. This is where Mumbai?s biggest Ganapati?s
come for immersion during the 11 day ganesh-utsav festival.
At that time this part of the city is best organized as there
are hundred of cops all over and the roads are made one-way.
A Nana Nani Park has recently been created around the beach,
it also now houses a water sports complex (closed during the
rainy months). Come here to feed the pigeons, there?s a huge
feeding ground, Just next to the beach stands teen batti,
a signaling post that was used for the ships coming to bay
in the yester years.
Juhu
Scampering children, romancing couples and evening joggers,
that?s Juhu but more than that, this is the place for golas
(ice lolly) and chaat?s. There is no better place to experience
the true Mumbaiya spirit than here. Stay out of the water
and avoid coming here on a Sunday though, and for those of
you who wish to sip some warm liquids after a cool day by
the beach, there?s Mocha?s right opposite and the very famous
Shiv Sagar for all kinds of good food and drinks around the
corner.
Bandstand
At the very end of Bandra, Bandstand is known for its lovely
jogger?s park, the homes of a few well known celebs and the
promenade that got a lot of attention during its make over.
That apart this is one place where you can enjoy a quiet meal
at the sea side caf?nd can actually sit on the rocky beach
and watch the sea all day long.
Parks
& Gardens
Sanjay Gandhi National Park
Mumbai is the only city to have a national park within its
city limits! But over time this green lung also seems to be
shrinking with the city growing far faster than its means
to provide space to live. Nevertheless the park still has
a few leopards, tigers (all captive), birds and butterflies,
deers, monkeys, hyenas. The national park opens into the Yevur
hills of Thane onto the other end. For the kids they have
a 30-minute lion and tiger safari that starts at about 1 km?s
distance from the entrance gate. Within the park are the Kanheri
Caves, a monastery where monks practiced their austerities
around the 1st century AD. Unlike Elephanta, these caves are
much simpler.
Hanging
Gardens
Atop Malabar Hill, it offers great views of the whole of Mumbai
city. These gardens are just opposite the Kamala Nehru Park
and provide lovely sunset views over the Arabian Sea. The
park was laid out in the early 1880s over Bombay?s main reservoir,
some say to cover the water from the potentially contaminating
activity of the nearby Towers of Silence. It to date is a
great place to hang out.
Priyadarshini
Park
The park where the elite of Bombay come to walk, Priyadarshini
Park is on the busy Neapean Sea road. This is the only park
to offer yoga classes by the morning and evening. Laughter
clubs are also associated with this park, so don?t be surprised
to see a group of grown men and women laughing their guts
out while you are on your morning walk!
Catchy
Corners
Khotachiwadi
Amidst the high rises of South Mumbai is this hamlet of Maharashtrian
Hindus and Christians. Near Opera House lies this tiny wadi
with smaller gallies (streets) and homes that are reminiscent
of old village homes, with a city touch to it. The colors
on the homes here are extremely young and alive. A few of
Bombay?s famous personalities stay here, when you?re here
go across to anantashram for awesome fish food.
Dhobi
Ghat
Here is where the dhobis (washermen) of Mumbai unite, wash
the dirty linen collected from all over and return it neatly
pressed to every house, all for a pittance. The endless lines
of dhobis soaping, rinsing, and drying clothes is a sight
to behold. The Ghat is near Mahalaxmi railway station.
Fishy
Corners!
Sassoon Dock
The fishing area in downtown Colaba, this is where
you will rub shoulders with the typical fisherfolk of Mumbai.
There is a perpetual pervasive smell of fish and chaos reigns,
yet Sassoon dock is an experience worth undertaking. The streets
here are full of nets either being woven together or those
full of fresh catch.
Worli
Fishing Village
It is inhabited by the Kolis, the original residents of Mumbai.
These tribal fisherfolk live here in tightly knit communities,
the colourful koli women, their dark skins offset by chunky
tribal jewellery are great photo subjects.
Religious Places
Siddhivinayak temple
No other temple in Mumbai has as much a following as this
one does. On any given Monday night, you will see hundreds
of people walking bare foot all night long to reach this ganesha
temple. Such is the faith in the elephant god. It is said
that this temple is the second most-richest temple in India.
On auspicious days the queue can get as long as a few kms.
Now there is a shop called prasadam next to the temple where
you can buy your Prasad, or even enjoy a good meal there.
Mahalaxmi
Temple
Fittingly enough to the financial capital of India, is this
temple dedicated to the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, that?s extremely
busy on the day the stock market closes for the week -- a
Friday. If you happen to be in the city during Navratri (nine-day
festival) this is believed to be the most auspicious time
to visit the temple,but be ready tostand in long queues.
Mumbai
devi temple
Though this temple is not as striking as the others, this
temple belongs to the resident deity of Mumbai, Mumbadevi.
The structure is about six centuries old, believed to be the
handiwork of Mumbaraka, a sadistic giant who frequently plundered
the city at the time. The goddess has an orange face and her
altar is always strewn with marigolds. Devotees believe that
those who seek her divine favor are never disappointed. Take
a trip down here, when you visit Zaveri bazaar or Crawford
market.
Haji
Ali Dargah
This is another must go to place. Dedicated to a wealthy Muslim
merchant and saint named Haji Ali, this white mosque is approached
by a long walkway, as it is right in the centre of the sea
at Worli. Legend has it that Haji Ali died on his way to Mecca
and his body, in its casket, floated back to Mumbai. However,
some believe that Haji Ali drowned at the place where the
dargah stands. Avoid visiting on Thursdays and Fridays as
it is teeming with devotees. Non-Muslims are permitted to
walk on the causeway and in the mosque compound.
Banganga
In the Malabar Hill area lies a sacred tank whose water is
believed to come from the Holy Ganges. It?s believed that
Lord Rama, in search of his kidnapped wife Sita, stopped in
this area and asked his brother Laxman for water. Laxman shot
an arrow into the ground, and water gushed forth from the
Ganga, which is over a thousand miles away such is the story
of banganga.On religious occasions many turn up to take a
ritual dip in these waters. The area is dotted with temples
and dharamsalas (resthouses). Once a year the Banganga musical
festival is held here, where musicians perform either by the
side of the tank, or right in the centre of the water body.
It?s a great experience.
Mount
Mary Church
Situated on a quiet hillock in suburban Bandra, Mount Mary
is probably Mumbai's best-known church for Christians and
non-christians alike. As the name suggests, it is dedicated
to the Mother of Christ and in September, the festival of
the Virgin Mother culminates in a week long fair, popularly
known as Bandra Fair, which has all the excitement of a small
carnival. Stalls sell sticky Goan sweets and wax idols of
the Virgin along with an assortment of candles shaped like
hands, feet and various other parts of the body. The sick
and suffering choose one that corresponds to their ailment
and light it in Church, with the pious hope that Mother Mary
will consider their appeals for help.
Afghan
Church
Afghan Church is situated at the southern end of the Colaba
Island and is better known as RC church, this lies in the
sparkling clean Navy Nagar area of Bombay. The church was
consecrated in 1858 and the elegant steeple that one can see
till date was completed in 1865. Each part of the church is
worth looking at for its details like the walls are made of
rubble faced with coarse Kurla Stone, the piers, arches, coignes
and dressings are of Porbunder Stone, the roof is built of
varnished teakwood with hammer beam style ribbing. The floor
of the chancel is made of encaustic tiles (in-laid with colored
clay) imported from England. It has a beautiful altar, tall
pinnacles, 21 lancet windows with exquisite stained glass
fixed in the triangular apexes, on either side of the nave.
A general memorial consists of series of white marble tablets
bearing the names of 158 of its officers. I may have lot you
in the details, but the place is truly worth a visit.
The
dargah of Makhdoom Ali Mahimi
This dargah of the secular Sufi saint is popular as the Mahim
dargah and is said to be at least 350 years old. Unlike any
other in Bombay this is the only the dargah sharief to have
has five domes and they sell some awesome food by the entrance
of the structure. Should you wish to feed people, very close
to here are a few small restaurants that feed the hungry,
of all castes and creed.
Isckon
Better known as Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple, it was the
first religious structure to bring fame to juhu. A place of
worship, meditation and spiritual knowledge, the temple advocates
the principles of Bhagvad Gita as, taught by Lord Krishna
and holds discourses regularly. This is one place where you
can still get married, if you wish a temple wedding.
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