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every way that one can think of, Nagaland is a vibrant kaleidoscope
of colours, people, nature and experiences of every hue. It
affords you peace and serenity, excitement and vivacity. With
the traditional and modern, the exotic and the universal,
all co-existing in one of the most splendid and unexplored
holiday options India and perhaps the world, has left to offer.
As you enter Kohima, the state capital of Nagaland, the first
impression is that the town is a breathtaking study of contrasts.
The impression persists as the jean-clad young mill about?.Nike
shod, hair cut and coloured per MTV diktat, ceaselessly chewing
paan like their forefathers with consummate ease.
Mingling
effortlessly with unlettered clansmen and cousins in mekhla
skirts with wide striped borders, carrying baskets overflowing
with fresh produce to market! Seeming to slip smoothly into
their myriad roles ? devout Christian, proud practitioner
of tribal ritual, computer geek, dutiful son, rap singer,
folk dancer and citizen of the world ? all fascinatingly rolled
into one. Perched at 1444.12m above sea level, Kohima, a small,
pleasant town surrounded by hills dotted with villages; offers
panoramic views of gentle green hills fading into rugged blue
peaks that reach upwards to meet pink clouds. It comes as
no surprise then that a local song goes?there is no place
in the world, half as fair as Kohima. An exaggeration perhaps,
but Kohima nevertheless, does have its own incomparable charms
that few other Indian hill stations can offer.
History
Dimapur was founded by the Kachari rulers, a Tibeto-Burmese
people, displaced from their territories in Assam by the Ahoms
in the 13th century, who resettled here. They established
their kingdom on the banks of the Dhansari River. Di-ma-pur
literally means ?the great town on the riverbank.? As you
climb up to the breathtaking panoramic views of its capital
Kohima, the roads wind through thick tropical jungle, deep
gorges, and unexplored terrain
To
far-flung villages where each tribe has, for generations,
formed its own beliefs, practiced its own rites, sung its
own history in the splendid isolation of these verdant hills.
There are sixteen major tribes and many minor clans. While
British missionaries zealously converted most Nagas from animalism
to Christianity, the Nagas take immense pride in their clans
and customs. Reiterating their tribal bonds by passing on
their traditional ways through unchanged rituals. Today, Nagaland
is one of the last bastions of the world?s tribal heritage
and one of the most culturally diverse and untouched places
left on earth.
Quick Facts
Location
Tucked away in the north-eastern edge of India, Nagaland is
a narrow strip of mountainous territory covering an area of
16,579sq.km. Nagaland State shares its boarders with the Brahmaputra
Valley of Assam to its west and north, Myanmar to its east,
Arunachal Pradesh to its north and Manipur to the south.
STD
Code
+ 91 (0)366 followed by the number. If you are trying to reach
old friends in this region, you may need to add on an extra
2 before their old numbers. Call 1951, 1952, 1953 from a BSNL
land line for changed number inquiries.
When
to Visit
The magic of any region is enhanced when you experience it
in every season possible. Nagaland is pleasant throughout
the year. However, as it rains heavily between May and September;
carry an umbrella. By autumn when it clears, the massive waterfalls
and gurgling streams that flow through verdant valleys and
endless emerald hills rise from the misted valleys. Only to
beckon the nature lover to mellow sunshine, to harvest festivals,
orchids and the eternal snows of the eastern Himalayas. Temperatures
vary between 16?C - 31?C in the summer and 4?C - 24?C in winter.
Cottons in summer and light layered woollens and a jacket
just in case, should suffice in winter. The best time to visit
is from October to March. Carry your walking shoes.
Entry
Permits
All visitors to Nagaland need to obtain 10 to 15-day permits
(extendable upto 45 days). Indians need inner line permits
[ILP] and foreigners need restricted area permits [RAP]. To
visit some remote/sensitive boarder points, permits are issued
only to groups of two, four or more. Foreign tourists to Nagaland
are allowed to visit the districts of Dimapur, Kohima, Mokokchong
and Wokha. Permits are valid for the specific tourist circuit-route
only. The exit and entry points shall be the same, unless
otherwise specified in the permit. Obtaining permits can take
time (months at times) and try your patience, so plan ahead.
Apply at least 4 weeks before the date of your expected visit.
Entrusting govt-approved travel agencies to arrange these
is best; especially if you want to go trekking down unknown
paths and need multiple clearances. Mountaineering expeditions
to peaks above 6000m need to obtain clearance at least 6-months
in advance from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Anand
Niketan, Delhi. Ph. No. 0114671211, fax: 6883412. Some peaks
are off limits because they are regarded as sacred or located
in sensitive military areas.
Religious Places
Kohima Cathedral
The Christmas-New Year week is a great time to visit Kohima.
Not only is the Catholic Cathedral at Aradurah Hill the largest
in the North East, it has the largest wooden crucifix in India
as well. Most of the population being Christian, mass here
is a sight and sound to behold as familiar hymns resound with
Nagamese lyrics and rituals firmly in place. Unlike any other
Christmas Eve anywhere.
Kidding around
The Kachari Megaliths
A beautifully proportioned brick doorway in the Mughal style,
leads into the remaining ruins of the old capital of the Kachari
rulers, in the heart of Dimapur. Green grass grows under the
shade of the towering bargad tree, and fills the nooks and
crannies of grouped rows of gigantic lingam-shaped stones
known as The Kachari Megaliths. These stones, once carved
with intricate motifs, are believed to be part of an old fertility
rite.
Green
Park
On the outskirts of Dimapur, en-route to Kohima, the simple
name of this park belies the wonders it beholds. A long and
winding road lined with slender Ashok trees curves gently
through mango, litchi and guava groves. The air transformed,
perfumed with their mingling aromas. The sky is an azure blue.
As we park beside the perfectly trimmed hedges of Golden Duranta,
Naga rock n? roll wafts across the lake where people go boating.
In the centre of the lake, across a picturesque bridge, is
a circular, restaurant with a red-roofed open verandah above.
People lie about on the grass surrounding it, drinking chilled
lassi or simply chilling out listening to the song?s heartbeat.
Travel Tips
• If you are visiting Kohima during the Durga Puja season,
be prepared to be caught in traffic and find every place worth
visiting packed with locals who are on their puja jaunt.
• Cottons are the wisest wear in hot and humid Kolkatta.
• The rains are unpredictable here, and the city gets
flooded easily, so be prepared!
• Mosquitoes are a problem in Kohima, a mosquito repellent
could come in handy.
• Be prepared to spend extra time in traffic
• Do not go to Kolkatta when on a diet, you just can?t
resist most of the yummy treats it dishes out.
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