Jammu has been for ever tucked into the shadows of the ever resplendent Srinagar, but has her own charm or grace. The snowcapped, mighty Himalayas over look hill town. A recent entrant in the tourist agenda, this city, on the banks of Tawi is more of a business hub and home to the Pahari school of painting. It is dotted with ancient temples including the Vaishno Devi temple which sees thousand of people during the season.

Dotted with temples it is the leading centre for the Pahari school of painting. A busy trading centre, it also plays host to a steady stream of pilgrims heading to the shrine of Vaishno Devi.
History
Beauty attracts controversy, they say. Jammu along with Srinagar is living testimony to this. J&K have been points of conflict ever since India?s Independence. To accede to India or Pakistan was the big question before the princely state, because even though its population was predominantly Muslim, it was ruled by a Hindu maharaja. This was the beginning of decades of unrest in the state. Jammu, fortunately has not seen much of the violence, since the movement for Kashmir?s independence has its base up in the Valley.

How to Reach
Air
Jammu is connected to Delhi and Srinagar by air.

Rail
Jammu has trains to all the metros as well as superfast trains to Trivandrum, Kanyakumari, Ahmedabad and Patna.

Road
State transport as well as private operators connect Jammu to most cities and towns of north India. There are daily buses to Amritsar (243 km), Chandigarh (436 km), Katra (48 km), Srinagar (305 km), Patnitop (108 km) and Mansar (62 km). There are also tourist cabs that ply between cities but make sure the vehicle has an inter-city permit. For hiring, contact the Special Tourist Taxi Association (Tourist Reception Centre, Tel: 2546266, 2575380).

What to see
Canals and Gardens
Ranbir Canal
Alongside the Ranbir Canal is a quaint little garden that is a popular picnic spot during summer. The canal is a branch off from the river Chenab at Akhnoor, 32 km away. Its water remains icy-cold throughout the year and its banks serve as good viewpoints and walkways.

Bahu Fort and Gardens
Built on a rock face on the River Tawi, it has the distinction of being the oldest fort in the city, constructed by Raja Bahulochan over 3,000 years ago. A temple to Goddess Kali and a beautifully landscaped garden known as Bagh-e-Bahu are must-visits.

Palaces and Museums
Amar Mahal Palace Museum
You can enjoy a double treat here. Browse through Pahari paintings, family portraits of the rulers of Jammu and Kashmir, and a library. Once you are finished, opt for the heritage walk programme that takes you through the history of Kashmir.

The museum is open 10 am to noon, and 3 pm to 5 pm (winter); 5 pm to 7 pm (summer). It?s closed on state holidays and Mondays.

Mubarak Mandi Palace
This palace complex was built way back in 1824. The architecture is a blend of Rajasthani, Mughal and even Baroque styles. What captures your attention immediately is the Sheesh Mahal, also known as the Pink Hall that displays miniature paintings of various hill schools.

Dogra Art Gallery
Within the palace grounds is this gallery where art aficionados can study rare miniatures from the Jammu and Basohli schools of painting. The gallery is open 10:30 am to 4:30 pm (winter); 8 am to 1.30 pm (summer); Monday closed.

Religious Places
Peer Khoh
A few kilometres from the main city, Peer Khoh is a cave that has a naturally formed linga (phallic symbol, representative of Shiva). When and how it came to be are not known. Adding to the aura of mystery around this place is the belief that there are secret passageways from here to other cave shrines and even out of the country.

Ranbireshwar Temple
Built by Maharaja Ranbir Singh in 1883 AD, this famous temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. A central linga measuring 7.5 ft in height, 12 crystal lingas and galleries with thousands of others carved on stone slabs can be seen and worshipped at this temple.

Peer Baba
Just behind the airport is this dargah of Muslim saint Peer Budhan Ali Shah. Such is the mass devotion that this dargah inspires that on certain days, Hindus and Sikhs outnumber the Muslim devotees.

Mahamaya Temple and City Forest
The age old Mahamaya Temple overlooks the Tawi River and is enveloped on all sides by the city forest. A small garden surrounded by acres of woods provides, it offers a good view of the city.

Raghunath Temple
Jammu?s most famous temple is also the largest in northern India. Though dedicated to Lord Rama, you can find idols of almost all the Hindu gods here. And all of them are colossal, towering over the devotees.